Driving the States of Maine

Driving the States of Maine
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Driving the States of Maine

Driving the States of Maine

For such an iconic and well-traveled thoroughfare, U.S. 1 is surprisingly unknowable. Numerous websites and sources disagree on when it was established and the way lengthy it runs, and just about every thing besides that it passes by way of 14 states on its method from Key West, Fla., to Fort Kent, Maine. In most of these it presents much less selection than you would possibly crave; even Florida is just about Florida all the method by way of.

However in the event you can dangle in there and make all of it the approach to Maine, one can find, unfold out alongside nearly 530 miles, a perpetually evolving panorama. By the time you get to the very finish of Maine’s Route 1 (as it’s referred to as there), you’re positive to really feel as if you’re not in the identical state as you had been if you first crossed the Piscataqua River from New Hampshire. Maybe not even the identical nation.

There are numerous Maines, and most get their activate Route 1. The street enters the state from Portsmouth, N.H., by way of the Memorial Bridge; the very first thing you see as you alight in Kittery is the Maine Sailors and Troopers Memorial, a placing sculpture commemorating the state’s First World Conflict useless. Shortly thereafter, U.S. 1 dives into Southern Maine as a mile-long, car-clogged gauntlet of outlet shops. Solely when you’ve cleared them will you see the signal for the Maine Customer Middle.

The state has lengthy billed itself as “Vacationland,” and you can make the case that the Southern Maine portion of U.S.-1 is only one prolonged customer middle. Driving it, you get the sense that Mainers have conceded these cities — some of the oldest in the state, relationship again to the seventeenth century — fully to vacationers.

The street right here is mile upon mile of motels, vintage retailers, artwork galleries, eating places, ice cream stands, and the occasional miniature golf course or theme park. It’s not all honky-tonk: Downtown Kennebunk, as an example, with its dignified previous brick and clapboard edifices, whitewashed Unitarian church with historic graveyard and flag-festooned lampposts, appears to be like like a set for a Hallmark Channel film. And sprinkled amongst most cities are indicators that individuals do, in actual fact, dwell right here year-round, treading water in a rising tide of tourism: places of work, supermarkets, a Civil Conflict monument on the garden of a gasoline station.

However for the most half, this stretch of Route 1 appears put aside for what Mainers name of us from away. Those that cling to a cherished picture of the place gleaned from a childhood go to, or an previous movie or novel or Winslow Homer portray, is perhaps struck by a inexperienced avenue signal with a yellow appendix that abuts the street in South Portland: The signal reads “Reminiscence Ln.”; the appendix, “Lifeless Finish.”

U.S. 1 skirts Maine’s largest metropolis, Portland, however not one other gauntlet of retailers in Freeport. From there, although, it emerges right into a much less dense Maine referred to as Midcoast. Midcoast Maine was principally settled in the 18th century and constructed on fishing and shipbuilding, although as you head north, you’ll odor the ocean however gained’t see it; this stretch of shoreline is kind of ragged.

Route 1 utterly bypasses some Midcoast cities, however goes proper by way of Thomaston, an image postcard village that was, incongruously, the house of the state’s maximum-security penitentiary for 178 years. Don’t name it Shawshank, however do cease into the Maine State Jail Showroom (“the jail retailer” to locals), an previous brick store the place one should buy picket furnishings and toys and even intricately-detailed mannequin schooners, all handmade by some of what one jail official as soon as described to me as “the 900 most harmful individuals in Maine.”

The jail itself is now a number of miles away, however till 2002 it sat proper subsequent to the showroom on U.S. 1. Its former website is now a park; in the event you’re diligent, you’ll find a bit inexperienced enclosure surrounded by an previous wrought-iron fence and perched dramatically above the St. George River. Inside, a solitary rock bears a stone slab that merely reads: “In Reminiscence of These Interred in This Plot.”

There’s a very good probability you’ll have to take a seat in visitors in Rockland, however when you make it by way of its cramped downtown, the buildings soften away and the ocean jumps proper out at you, having grown drained in the end of enjoying coy.

Quite a bit of issues bounce out at you alongside Midcoast’s U.S. 1: In Rockport and Camden, it’s huge previous ship captains’ homes repurposed as inns; in Belfast, it’s “Passawassawakeag,” the identify of the river that promenades beneath you on its method out to sea. And in Prospect, it’s the Penobscot Narrows Bridge, a placing cable-stayed span with two towers that, at 447 ft, stand greater than twice as excessive as the tallest constructing in Maine. (That may be a church.)

At the prime of one is an observatory which affords wonderful vistas of land and water and the city of Bucksport, the place Route 1 passes proper by the grave of namesake Jonathan Buck (1719-1795). His marker bears a stain in the form of a girl’s decrease leg and foot, stated to be the manifestation of a curse hurled at Col. Buck by a girl he was burning at the stake as a witch. Two separate plaques subsequent to it clarify that it is a fable and that nobody was ever executed for witchcraft in Bucksport (or Maine), however I consider the story anyway, as a result of I need to.

By the time you get to Ellsworth, you’ve pushed previous numerous lobster shacks and piles of nautical knickknacks and motels with names like Yard Arm and Yankee Clipper, so if you see indicators pointing to Bar Harbor, chances are you’ll expertise some type of seasickness. The excellent news is, U.S. 1 doesn’t go there.

The dangerous information is, you’ve obtained one other 120 or so miles of shoreline left.

However it’s completely different from what you’ve seen heretofore. Very completely different. You’re now in the third Maine: Downeast.

Virtually as quickly as you allow Ellsworth, every thing simply disappears: The boutiques and vintage shops and artwork galleries and ice cream stands and motels and inns and putt-putt and your cell sign and, most of all, different vehicles. Of their stead is rather a lot of open street, and empty fields, and pine timber, and water close to and distant, and historic properties in numerous states of deferred upkeep, and, properly, a good bit of good-old-fashioned Maine bizarre. This can be a half of the state the place individuals are comparatively few and sometimes have deep roots and traditionally haven’t gotten out a lot besides to go out to sea or off to conflict. I’m not saying that fostered eccentricity; however one thing did.

You’ll cross issues that, in the event you don’t really feel like stopping the automotive each few miles, it would be best to at the least make be aware of and analysis later: The big corrugated metallic constructing in Hancock with “Chainsaw Sawyer Artist Dwell Present” painted on its aspect; the in any other case nondescript home in Gouldsboro with a Ferris wheel in its yard and a classic pickup truck parked on its roof; the large geodesic dome painted like a blueberry in Columbia Falls. In Machias, you would possibly contemplate following the signal all the way down to Fort O’Brien, the place, in June 1775, a deal to commerce groceries for lumber went dangerous and escalated into the first naval battle of the American Revolution. There’s a lengthy custom, up right here, of driving a tough discount.

A big white deserted home marks the spot in Whiting the place U.S. 1 takes a pointy left flip. It quickly passes many deserted issues, together with barns, retailers, boats and a dollop of rock and pines in the bay named St. Croix Island. In June, 1604, 79 French would-be settlers (together with Samuel de Champlain) went ashore there and began constructing. Practically half died that winter. As we speak it’s an Worldwide Historic Website, the just one in the whole Nationwide Park Service system. Its customer middle, a lonely outpost, closes from mid-October to late Might, one thing Champlain little doubt would admire.

Many of the good-looking brick waterfront buildings in the city of Calais additionally seem empty, although the whole facade of one, an imposing four-story edifice from 1847, nonetheless advertises Dr. Thomson’s Sarsaparilla, The Nice English Treatment. Cures When Others Fail!

Dr. Thomson is lengthy gone. So, as an historic marker exterior an auto-parts retailer on Route 1 will let you know, is Washington County’s solely synagogue, which as soon as stood at that spot.

Round Danforth, you’ll begin to discover empty log vans heading north. Comply with them, and also you’ll quickly cross over into the fourth of Route 1’s Maines: Aroostook County. Most Mainers simply name it “The County,” and don’t know far more about it than you do. The biggest county east of the Mississippi, Aroostook is an expanse of forest and farmland the measurement of Connecticut and Rhode Island mixed, with simply 67,000 individuals scattered all through the entire factor. It’s fully potential they’re outnumbered by moose.

The primary sizable city you hit heading up Route 1 is the county seat, Houlton. As soon as house to lumber barons, it’s a treasure for connoisseurs of Gilded-Age structure, and for street nerds: It hosts each the reunion of Route 1 and I-95 (which final crossed paths again in Kittery) simply earlier than the latter terminates at the Canadian border, and the solely place in the nation the place U.S.-1 and U.S.-2 intersect, the latter beginning in Houlton and ending 2,500 miles west in Everett, Wash.

In a body on the wall o this a bit marble representing Pluto; for the subsequent 40 miles, you’ll cross a 1:93,000,000 scale mannequin of the photo voltaic system spaced out exactly alongside the roadside (earth is the measurement of a cantaloupe; Jupiter, an enormous pumpkin) ending with the solar (kind of) in Folsom Corridor, the science constructing at the College of Maine at Presque Isle. The entire thing was deliberate, plotted and constructed by native college students, maybe comforted by the information that the universe, like their county, is usually empty.

Outdoors a bit pink one-room schoolhouse in Cyr Plantation (in use till 1964), a picket signal welcomes you to the Saint John Valley — in English and French. Atop it’s carved a bit tricolor with a gold star in its blue area: The flag of Acadia. A French colony in what’s now Canada, it technically ceased to exist when Britain gained the French and Indian Conflict in 1763 and expelled its inhabitants, most famously to Louisiana; some, although, sneaked throughout the Saint John River and have been right here ever since. The valley, with its roadside crosses and shrines, and gold or silver painted church steeples, and individuals who converse English with a thick accent and French at house — and, in all places, these flags — feels extra Acadian than American or Canadian.

After U.S. 1 makes a second sharp left flip at the city of Van Buren, it hews near the river, which varieties the border of the two international locations, and which is slender sufficient to hit a baseball (or slap a hockey puck) throughout. You may rely the vehicles parked exterior the huge church buildings on the different aspect; when the water’s low, you can wade to mass. In Madawaska, a paper plant, one of the few remaining in the state, really straddles the river and thus the border. Pulp produced in Edmundston, New Brunswick, on the Canadian aspect, is shipped by way of pipes to Madawaska, the place it’s was pet meals luggage, journal pages and labels for prescription bottles. (Even after Covid closed the border, these pipes stayed open spherical the clock.)

Madawaska can be thought-about the northeasternmost city in the United States — making it a vacation spot for bikers who tackle the problem (referred to as the “Iron Butt”) of visiting all 4 corners of the continental United States in simply three weeks — however U.S. 1 retains going by way of it, and neighboring Frenchville, earlier than lastly coming to a cease in Fort Kent., A marker at a plaza downtown says “2,446 Authentic Miles,” with out explaining that “unique.” The plaza, which sits beside the bridge to tiny Clair, N.B., is known as “America’s First Mile.” Take that, Key West.

There are individuals who come all the approach to Fort Kent, a country place that would cross for Alaska, expressly to see that spot. Few, although, wander over to see the precise Fort Kent, a picket blockhouse constructed throughout the Aroostook Conflict of 1838-9, a border dispute between England and the United States that ended and not using a shot being fired. And thus, Maine’s allotment of U.S. 1, 22 % of the entire factor, ends simply because it started: with a bridge, and a conflict.

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