How Climbers Reached the Summit of K2 in Winter for the First Time
Staff Nimsdai, made up of six climbers, was led by Purja, a former Nepalese soldier and British particular forces operator who — after retiring from the army — burst onto the climbing scene in 2019 when he climbed all 14 8,000-meter peaks in six months and 6 days, shaving greater than seven years off the world report.
Purja is Magar, not Sherpa, however he shaped a workforce that included 5 Sherpa climbers. The workforce included Geljen Sherpa, who climbed a number of Himalayan peaks with Purja in 2019, and Mingma David Sherpa, best-known for rescuing 52 climbers from the slopes of Everest in a single season in 2016.
Mingma G, a Sherpa climber who had climbed Everest 5 occasions, K2 twice and who had climbed all of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks earlier than turning 30, led a separate workforce of Sherpa climbers.
Collectively they and a workforce of native Pakistani porters hauled 70 camp tents, six eating tents and 30 specifically designed high-altitude tents on a spectacular weeklong 60-mile trek via the snow to base camp at roughly 17,000 ft. In addition they packed hundreds of meters of rope, dozens of ice screws, rock pitons, supplemental oxygen and kerosene, 360 kilos of meat, and 400 kilos of chocolate, cookies and power bars.
It had been determined earlier than their arrival that each one the climbers at base camp would observe the usual Abruzzi route that winter. On Dec. 26, Purja and his workforce stuffed their packs with rope, tents, and 4 days of meals, and climbed the 40-degree slope to Camp I at 20,013 ft to start their first four-day rotation at excessive altitude, to acclimatize to the circumstances. The subsequent day, they moved on to Camp II at 21,982 ft the place they pitched tents beneath rock ledges providing meager shelter within the howling wind.
On Dec. 28, Purja’s radio chirped. Staff Mingma G have been busy fixing traces to the mountainside that each one the groups might use through the winter season. And so they wanted assist in the event that they have been to complete operating traces all the best way to Camp III. 4 members of Staff Nimsdai have been too spent and descended to base camp, however Purja and Mingma Tenzi, pushed as much as 23,000 ft to help. By the point everybody had returned to base camp on New Years Eve, Purja had frostbitten fingers, and two Nepali groups had joined forces.
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