Olympic Climbing Final: Updates and Results
TOKYO – The men’s final is underway for sport climbing’s first appearance at the Olympics, and the man widely regarded as the world’s best climber is in sixth place after two of the three disciplines.
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic has climbed the most difficult outdoor climbing routes ever attempted in the world. Indoors, over false obstacles and holds, he has won numerous World Championships and World Cup events.
But in the early days of climbing at the Olympics, different disciplines were combined into one medal-winning event, and Ondra did not rank well after the first two. The rankings of the athletes in each of the three disciplines will be multiplied together, and the climber with the lowest total will be the winner.
Ondra started off with a pleasant surprise in the speed round. He set a personal best of 6.86 in his last race of the round – possibly the last speed test he will ever have – and it was an almost perfect result for him. He got an unexpected fourth place out of the eight men in the final.
But whatever advantage Ondra received in speed, he lost it en bloc, an event where he is a former world champion. He was baffled by the second boulder problem, requiring some sort of two-step jump, running to a small socket, then an awkward lift of sheer force to the top. Most could do halfway, good for an “area,” but Ondra couldn’t. He received no points and finished in a surprising sixth place in the bouldering discipline.
This leaves him sixth in the competition, heading for the top discipline, his best event. But even a first place may not be enough for a medal.
Nathaniel Coleman of the United States won the bouldering event and is third in front of the lead. The French Mickael Mawem occupies the first place, but his weakest event is in the lead. In second place is the Japanese Tomoa Narasaki, who finished second in speed and in bouldering, and who could be in the best position to win gold.
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